Rhino Brake Line Kit Installation Instructions

his brake line kit has been designed and built by J2 Precision from Goodridge components exclusively. These components are guaranteed against manufacturing defects forever, by Goodridge. Improper mounting which results in damage due to rubbing is not covered by this warranty. Damage from collision or other abuse is not covered. We are very proud of our products. Unlike many other products, these lines should fit exactly and you should have all of the pieces needed for installation….down to the tie wraps! Please contact us with any problems, questions, or suggestions.

• You will need a new pint of Dot 4 brake fluid in order to bleed your brake system. Do not re-use the original brake fluid! Dispose of the original fluid properly. If you are not familiar with any of the operations described in these instructions, stop immediately and seek professional help! Improper installation may result in complete brake failure!
• Observe proper safety procedures while changing your brake lines. Wear safety glasses when working with brake fluid. If you jack your vehicle up, be sure to use the proper jack stands before getting underneath. Use the proper tools for the proper job. Do not perform any operation you are not familiar with or do not understand!
• Clean the area around the cap to the master cylinder to prevent getting dirt into the master cylinder. Clean all the areas where any connection will be made. Dirt is the enemy of braking systems! Drain the existing brake fluid from the master cylinder. Brake fluid will remove paint, so clean up any spilled fluid immediately with clean water.
• Before removing your stock lines, note how they are routed and secured. Your replacement lines will be routed and secured in the exact same manner, except for a small change in the rear line. Note that there is “slack” in the brake hose above the front upper “A” arm, so that the “A” arm does not contact the hose when the suspension is compressed. Note that there is also “slack” in the brake hoses between the existing two outermost clamps, to allow the front wheels to turn without “pulling” on the hose. You will need to adjust the new hoses in the supplied clamps to duplicate these areas where the “slack” is required for safe operation of the vehicle. Failure to properly route the brake lines can result in brake failure!
• See Picture #1 and Picture #2.

• Remove the original front brake line. Note that it will still have brake fluid in it, which you will need to catch in a proper container. (Never use a drink container to catch brake fluid, as it is poisonous and could be consumed by accident.) Retain the original hardware. Install the two banjos provided on the front calipers with four of the brass sealing washers and two of the long banjo bolts provided in your kit. Note that one of the washers goes between the banjo and the banjo bolt, while the other goes between the banjo and the caliper. Point the banjos so that the point at the end of the threaded portion points directly towards the center of your Rhino. With the wheels straight ahead, the two banjos should point directly at each other. Tighten to 14 ft. lbs.
• Route the new line and secure the “tee”, using the original bolt, in the same location as the original “tee”. Route the shortest line to the master cylinder, following the path of the original hose. Secure it to the master cylinder using one of the long banjo bolts and two of the brass sealing washers. Note that the banjo attached to the end of the short hose gets a sealing washer on each side of the banjo. Tighten to 14 ft. lbs. See Picture #3.
• Route the hoses out to the wheels, attaching it loosely in the provided clamps. Attach the 90 degree ends on the two hoses to the banjos already installed on the calipers. The 90 degree hose ends should point almost straight up when tightened. Tighten to 14 ft. lbs. When properly clocked onto the banjo and properly attached in the clamp on the upright, this line should have a very natural, gentle bend in it. It will come very close to the steering arm on the upright. We suggest using a tie wrap to secure the line to the steering arm, so that there is never a chance of the line rubbing on the wheel, should it shift in the clamp. This is especially a good idea when using 12” wheels. See Picture #3 (The tie wrap is not installed in this picture, but should be placed about 2” to the left of the clamp shown, where the steering arm bends upward.)
• Secure the hose into the clamps, leaving “slack” in the previously noted locations. Review Picture #1 and Picture #3. Turn the wheels from lock to lock and make sure that the new hose is not “pulled” on when the wheels move. Compress the front suspension to make sure that you have adequate room between the control arm and the brake line. Adjust the hoses in the clamps until it is properly located. Tighten the clamps. Install one of the supplied “regular” tie wraps in the center of the radiator cross support, where the original tie wrap was located. One of the supplied clamps also is needed on this cross support (on the outer right side), where the original clamp was located. Install one of the “special” tie wraps in the radiator upright support where the original tie wrap was located. (You will need to pull the original tie wrap out of the hole drilled in the upright.)
• Remove the seats, the center console, and the rear skid plate (under the differential) to gain access to the rear brake line. Remove the air shroud duct tube in order to reach down from the top and get to the rear brake line.
• Remove the original rear brake line from the caliper. Note that it will still have brake fluid in it, which you will need to catch in a proper container.
• Cut the “special” tie wraps that secure the original brake line. Note that they will need to be pulled out of the holes drilled into the chassis in order to replace them with the provided replacements. There are three “special” tie wraps provided for these locations. Note that the tie wrap which holds both the brake line and the wiring loom (closest tie wrap towards the front) is not pulled tight, but just keeps the brake line and loom in the correct location.
• Loosen the steel line that runs from the master cylinder at the 90 degree fitting that is held in place with a 6mm (10mm headed) bolt. Use a tubing wrench, in order not to damage the steel line. Remove the entire rear line assembly.
• Gently bend the steel line towards the right rear tire between the 90 degree bend at the very end and the gentle 45 degree bend where it is secured in the chassis. This should result in a very gently curved area between the two existing bends. Do not kink the line! Only bend the line enough so that it is very close to the wiring loom that is just to the right of the original hose assembly. If the line “pops” out of the hose supports in the chassis, reattach it now. The resulting line will point almost exactly at the center of the rear differential. See Picture #4.
• Install the new line with the short banjo bolt supplied into the rear caliper. Use the two remaining brass sealing washers on each side of the banjo. Tighten the banjo bolt to 14 ft. lbs.
• Route the new line through the newly installed “special” tie wraps and secure it. Attach the other end of the line to the slightly bent steel line and tighten with a 10mm line wrench, holding the new line with a 17mm wrench. Do not allow the line to twist! Tighten to 14 ft. lbs. Secure the new line assembly to the wiring loom with a supplied regular tie wrap. See Picture #5.
• Your line installation is complete. Clean all junctions at this time. Bleed your brake system. Push firmly on the brake pedal after bleeding, while a helper checks for leaks at all junctions. Repair any leaks immediately, before operation. Hold the brake pedal very firmly for 60 seconds. The pedal should be very firm and should not “sink” while you hold pressure. Any “sinking” of the pedal would indicate a leak. Repair immediately!

Re-assemble your Rhino and test drive very slowly. Check the brake function at very slow speeds! Check lines for any rubbing or pulling. Correct any issues immediately. Check all connections for leaks after 10 minutes of operation and again at the end of the first day of use.